Chain stitch
Make a slip knot and place the working loop on the hook.
Find the motion you need, check the loop count, then use it in a project.
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Make a slip knot and place the working loop on the hook.
Make an adjustable loop, crochet into the loop and over its tail, then pull the tail to close the center. The starting chain does not count in this single-crochet exercise.
Insert under the strand of the top V closest to you. Leave the farther strand unworked, then finish the stitch normally.
Insert under the strand of the top V farther from you. Complete the stitch while leaving the near strand unworked.
Insert the hook into the next stitch, under both strands of its top V, or into the space the pattern names.
Insert the hook into the next stitch, under both strands of its top V. On the first row, go into the next chain.
Yarn over, then insert the hook into the next stitch, under both strands of its top V.
Yarn over and insert the hook into the next stitch, under both strands of its top V.
Wrap the yarn over the hook twice, then insert the hook into the next stitch, under both strands of its top V.
Pull up a loop in each of the next two stitches, then yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook. Two stitches become one, so the row has one stitch fewer.
Work two double crochets only as far as their last pull-through, leaving one loop of each on the hook, then yarn over and draw through all three loops. Two stitches of the old row share one top.
Work two complete stitches into the same stitch. The old stitch is used twice, so the row or round gains one stitch.
Alternate single crochet with a chain space. On later rows, place each single crochet in the previous row’s chain space, not in its stitch top.
Work several double crochets into one place, then anchor the fan with single crochet. This version uses 5 double crochets per full shell.
Make [double crochet, chain 1, double crochet] in the same place. In the next row, work a new V into each V’s center space.
Draw up several long loops in one stitch, then close them together. This puff uses 3 yarn-over-and-pull-up pairs, leaving 7 loops before closing.
Work 5 unfinished double crochets in one stitch, then close all 6 loops together. The raised bump is pushed to the side the pattern calls the right side.
Make 5 complete double crochets in one stitch. Remove the hook from the last loop, insert through the first double crochet’s top and pull the last loop through it.
For this 3-double-crochet cluster, make 3 unfinished double crochets in the same stitch, then close the 4 loops together.
Alternate ordinary double crochet with front-post double crochet. Raised posts outline the recessed squares; count the posts as stitches, not extra stitches.
Work a double crochet, chain 1 and skip 1 across the row; on the next rows put each double crochet on top of a double crochet below. The fabric is a light, open grid for market bags and summer tops.
Wrap the yarn around your finger to make a loop, insert the hook and pull both strands behind the finger through, then finish like a single crochet. The loops stand out on the side away from you, so work loop rows on wrong-side rows.
Wrap the yarn around the hook 7 to 10 times, insert, pull up a loop, then draw a yarn over through every loop in one slow pull. The wraps coil around the stitch like a spring.
A ch-3 picot is three chains closed into a small loop: chain 3, then slip stitch into the third chain from the hook. Spaced along the last row of a border, picots make a pretty, firm edge.
Work a half double crochet, but pull the new loop straight through the yarn over as well as the stitch, then finish with a yarn over through both loops. The stitches lean and nest into a herringbone texture.
Alternate a single crochet and a double crochet across the row. On the next rows, work a double crochet into each single crochet and a single crochet into each double crochet. The fabric is firm, flat and textured.
Alternate a single crochet and a double crochet across the row, and change color every row. Each row puts a double crochet into every single crochet below and a single crochet into every double crochet, so the two colors lock into a small jagged check.
Chain a multiple of 3, plus 2. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) into every third chain, then a shell of 3 double crochets into each chain-2 space, then (sc, ch 2, sc) into the middle of each shell. Two rows repeat, giving rows of small flowers.
Instead of the top of the stitch, work around its post: from the front for a front-post double crochet (FPdc), so the post stands forward, and from the back for a back-post double crochet (BPdc). Alternated, they make ribbing.
An elongated (or extended) single crochet adds one extra pull-through: insert, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop, then yarn over and draw through both. It is taller and softer than single crochet.
Work three single crochets into one stitch for each peak and single crochet three together for each valley, with plain stitches between. In this version the row is a multiple of 10 plus 1, and every row repeats the same instructions.
Insert the hook under the front vertical bar from right to left, yarn over and pull up a loop; keep every loop on the hook and work them off on the return pass. Tunisian simple stitch makes a firm, woven-looking grid.
Insert the hook from front to back between the two vertical bars of the stitch, under the horizontal strands, yarn over and pull up a loop. Worked across every row, it makes Vs that look like knitted stockinette.