Step 1 Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Two loops are on the hook.
Step 1 Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Two loops are on the hook. Step 2 Insert the hook into the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Three loops are on the hook. Step 3 Yarn over and draw through all three loops. One loop remains, and two stitches of the old row now share one top.
Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Two loops are on the hook.
US / UK US sc2tog = UK dc2tog (double crochet two together)Each sc2tog uses 2 stitches and makes 1.Em português diminuição (dim)
Before you start: Single crochet
Make one sc2tog
- Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Two loops are on the hook.
- Insert the hook into the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Three loops are on the hook.
- Yarn over and draw through all three loops. One loop remains, and two stitches of the old row now share one top.
Try it on a practice strip
Chain 11. Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across: 10 stitches. Chain 1 and turn; the chain does not count.
Row 2: sc2tog, single crochet in each stitch until 2 stitches remain, sc2tog: 8 stitches. Row 3: repeat Row 2 for 6 stitches. Count the tops after every row. Each sc2tog is one stitch, so look for one V above two posts.
The invisible decrease for amigurumi
- Insert the hook under the front loop only of the next stitch, then under the front loop only of the stitch after it. Three loops are on the hook.
- Yarn over and draw through the two front loops. Two loops remain.
- Yarn over and draw through both loops. Count it as one stitch, the same as sc2tog.
Step 1 Insert the hook under the front loop only of the next stitch, then under the front loop only of the stitch after it. Three loops are on the hook.
Step 1 Insert the hook under the front loop only of the next stitch, then under the front loop only of the stitch after it. Three loops are on the hook. Step 2 Yarn over and draw through the two front loops. Two loops remain. Step 3 Yarn over and draw through both loops. Count it as one stitch, the same as sc2tog.
The hook goes under the front loop only of each stitch, the strand nearer you.
Where the decreases go
“Sc2tog” or “dec” is the decrease itself; where it sits in the row instruction tells you where to work it, and the stitch total at the end of the row or round tells you whether you got it right. To lose several stitches across one row, spread them evenly; the increase and decrease calculator works out the spacing.
Many amigurumi patterns ask for the invisible decrease because it leaves less of a gap or bump in tight rounds than an ordinary sc2tog; follow the pattern when it names one or the other. On rows, working the decrease one stitch in from the edge keeps the side straighter.
If the count comes out wrong
One stitch short: you made a sc2tog where an ordinary single crochet belonged, or worked one into the last two stitches twice. Count back to the last place the total matched.
A hole instead of a decrease: you skipped a stitch rather than working two together. Undo to the hole and pull up a loop in both stitches before the final pull-through.
A loop left over on the hook: the final pull-through went through only two of the three loops, so the decrease is not finished. Yarn over and draw through the loops left on the hook until one remains.
A stitch too many: a sc2tog was missed, or a stitch was worked twice. Count the stitch tops back to the last place the total matched, undo to there and work the row again.