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Crochet gnome: an amigurumi with a tall hat and a beard

Make a 36-stitch body with a flat base, a cone hat that grows from 6 to 36 stitches, and a small nose. Knot a fringe beard into the body, then sew on the hat and the nose.

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Amigurumi roundsUS termsHook: 3.5 mm (US E-4), for tight stitchesSize from your washed swatchDK or worsted yarn

Know these stitches: magic ring, single crochet, single crochet decrease, crochet increase, back loop only

The finished gnome.

Materials and yarn planning

Yarns we’ve reviewed that suit it: Bernat Softee Cotton yarn, Knit Picks Dishie Cone yarn, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton DK yarn. For the hook, choose by size and handle.

Yarn estimate from the stitch counts: about 26 m of the body color, 19 m of the hat color, 3 m of the nose color. That allows about 4 cm of yarn per tight single crochet, plus a quarter for tails and sewing. One 50 g ball of a light or medium yarn holds about 80 m or more, so one ball of each color is enough. The beard takes about 4 m more, cut into 12 cm strands.

Finished size and gauge

If S single crochets measure 10 cm in your tight swatch, the widest round of 36 stitches is 36 × 10 ÷ S cm around, so the body is about 36 × 10 ÷ (S × 3.14) cm across. These are calculations from the counts, not a measured sample.

The gauge calculator compares your swatch with the pattern. A stitch name you do not know is in the abbreviation chart; a UK pattern’s names are in the US/UK term reference.

The pattern

Count rows for this pattern

Body

  1. Round 1: make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. Mark the first stitch and work in a spiral without joining (6 stitches).
  2. Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  3. Round 3: [sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (18 stitches).
  4. Round 4: [sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (24 stitches).
  5. Check the fabric now: hold it up to the light. If you can see gaps between the stitches, stuffing will show through them; start again with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.
  6. Round 5: [sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (30 stitches).
  7. Round 6: [sc in the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (36 stitches).
  8. Round 7: sc in each stitch through the back loop only: the edge turns up and makes a flat base (36 stitches).
  9. Rounds 8–14: sc in each stitch (36 stitches).
  10. Round 15: [sc in the next 4 stitches, invisible decrease] 6 times (30 stitches).
  11. Round 16: [sc in the next 3 stitches, invisible decrease] 6 times (24 stitches).
  12. Start stuffing now, while the opening is wide: fill the body firmly and press the base flat on the table as you go.
  13. Round 17: [sc in the next 2 stitches, invisible decrease] 6 times (18 stitches).
  14. Round 18: [sc in the next stitch, invisible decrease] 6 times (12 stitches).
  15. Top up the stuffing through the small opening.
  16. Round 19: invisible decrease 6 times (6 stitches). Fasten off, thread the tail through the front loops of the last round and pull it closed.

Hat

  1. Hat round 1: make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. Mark the first stitch and work in a spiral without joining (6 stitches).
  2. Hat round 2: sc in each stitch (6 stitches).
  3. Hat round 3: 2 sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  4. Hat rounds 4–5: sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  5. Hat round 6: [sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (18 stitches).
  6. Hat rounds 7–8: sc in each stitch (18 stitches).
  7. Hat round 9: [sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (24 stitches).
  8. Hat rounds 10–11: sc in each stitch (24 stitches).
  9. Hat round 12: [sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (30 stitches).
  10. Hat rounds 13–14: sc in each stitch (30 stitches).
  11. Hat round 15: [sc in the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (36 stitches).
  12. Hat rounds 16–17: sc in each stitch (36 stitches).
  13. The magic ring is the tip of the hat. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff it, or push in only a little stuffing near the tip so it stands up.

Nose

  1. Nose round 1: make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. Mark the first stitch and work in a spiral without joining (6 stitches).
  2. Nose round 2: 2 sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  3. Nose rounds 3–4: sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  4. Stuff the nose lightly.
  5. Nose round 5: invisible decrease 6 times (6 stitches).
  6. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Beard and assembly

  1. Beard: cut about 30 strands of yarn, each 12 cm long. Fold a strand in half, push the hook under one stitch of the body, pull the fold through, then pull the two ends through the fold and tighten: a fringe knot. Knot strands into a triangle on the front, about 8 stitches wide at Round 13 and narrowing to one stitch at Round 9.
  2. Put the hat on the body so its edge sits about Round 13, just above the beard. Turn the beard to the front, then sew the hat’s last round to the body all the way round.
  3. Sew the nose on under the hat’s edge, over the top of the beard. Trim the beard into a point, or leave it long.

Check the work

Body totals: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, then 36 for eight rounds (the first in back loops only), then 30, 24, 18, 12 and 6. Hat: 6, 6, 12, 12, 12, 18, 18, 18, 24, 24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 36, 36, 36. Nose: 6, 12, 12, 12, 6.

Single crochets by round, main piece6 · 12 · 18 · 24 · 30 · 36 · 36 · 36 · 36 · 36 · 36 · 36 · 36 · 36 · 30 · 24 · 18 · 12 · 6
  • If the gnome will not stand, the base was stuffed into a dome: take out a little stuffing at the bottom and press the base flat again.
  • If the hat slides, sew it down a second time just inside the first seam.
  • If the beard looks thin, add strands in the gaps; each fringe knot uses one stitch.

Updated . Stitch counts checked row by row; we haven’t crocheted a sample of this one yet. How the patterns are checked. Keep your yarn label, hook and swatch on the printable project worksheet.

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