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Crochet cow pattern: amigurumi muzzle, ears, horns and spots

Make a 30-stitch head and a 24-stitch body in white, a pink 18-stitch muzzle, two ears, two horns and a few black spots, then pin and sew each piece in place.

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Amigurumi roundsUS termsHook: 3.5 mm (US E-4), for tight stitchesSize from your washed swatchDK or worsted yarn

Know these stitches: magic ring, single crochet, single crochet decrease, crochet increase, slip stitch

The finished cow.

Materials and yarn planning

Yarns we’ve reviewed that suit it: Bernat Softee Cotton yarn, Knit Picks Dishie Cone yarn, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton DK yarn. For the hook, choose by size and handle.

Yarn estimate from the stitch counts: about 32 m of white, 2 m of pink, 4 m of black, 2 m of cream. That allows about 4 cm of yarn per tight single crochet, plus a quarter for tails and sewing. One 50 g ball of a light or medium yarn holds about 80 m or more, so one ball of each color is enough.

Finished size and gauge

If S single crochets measure 10 cm in your tight swatch, the widest round of 30 stitches is 30 × 10 ÷ S cm around, so the head is about 30 × 10 ÷ (S × 3.14) cm across. These are calculations from the counts, not a measured sample.

The gauge calculator compares your swatch with the pattern. A stitch name you do not know is in the abbreviation chart; a UK pattern’s names are in the US/UK term reference.

The pattern

Count rows for this pattern

Head (white)

  1. Round 1: make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. Mark the first stitch and work in a spiral without joining (6 stitches).
  2. Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  3. Round 3: [sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (18 stitches).
  4. Round 4: [sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (24 stitches).
  5. Check the fabric now: hold it up to the light. If you can see gaps between the stitches, stuffing will show through them; start again with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.
  6. Round 5: [sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (30 stitches).
  7. Rounds 6–10: sc in each stitch (30 stitches).
  8. Place the safety eyes now, while the head is wide open: between Rounds 7 and 8, about 8 stitches apart. Safety eyes and other small parts can come loose: for a toy meant for a baby or a child under 3, embroider the eyes with yarn instead.
  9. Round 11: [sc in the next 3 stitches, invisible decrease] 6 times (24 stitches).
  10. Round 12: [sc in the next 2 stitches, invisible decrease] 6 times (18 stitches).
  11. Round 13: [sc in the next stitch, invisible decrease] 6 times (12 stitches).
  12. Stuff the head firmly.
  13. Round 14: invisible decrease 6 times (6 stitches). Fasten off, thread the tail through the front loops of the last round and pull it closed.

Muzzle (pink)

  1. Muzzle round 1: make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. Mark the first stitch and work in a spiral without joining (6 stitches).
  2. Muzzle round 2: 2 sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  3. Muzzle round 3: [sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (18 stitches).
  4. Join with a slip stitch, fasten off leaving a tail, and embroider two nostrils with black yarn.

Spots, ears, horns and body

  1. Spot round 1: make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. Mark the first stitch and work in a spiral without joining (6 stitches).
  2. Spot round 2: 2 sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  3. Make three or four spots in black. Join each with a slip stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
  4. Ears (make 2, white): a magic ring with 6 sc, then [sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch] 3 times (9 stitches), then 2 rounds of 9 sc. Flatten and fasten off, leaving a tail.
  5. Horns (make 2, cream): a magic ring with 4 sc, then 2 rounds of 4 sc. Stuff lightly and fasten off, leaving a tail.
  6. Body round 1: make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. Mark the first stitch and work in a spiral without joining (6 stitches).
  7. Body round 2: 2 sc in each stitch (12 stitches).
  8. Body round 3: [sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (18 stitches).
  9. Body round 4: [sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch] 6 times (24 stitches).
  10. Body rounds 5–10: sc in each stitch (24 stitches).
  11. Body round 11: [sc in the next 2 stitches, invisible decrease] 6 times (18 stitches).
  12. Body rounds 12–13: sc in each stitch (18 stitches).
  13. Body round 14: [sc in the next stitch, invisible decrease] 6 times (12 stitches).
  14. Stuff the body and fasten off, leaving a long tail. The top stays open.

Assemble

  1. The head’s magic ring is the top of the head, and the closed Round 14 is its underside. Pin every piece before you sew, then look at the face from the front.
  2. Muzzle: center it below the eyes, covering Rounds 9 to 12, and sew round its edge, stuffing it lightly as you close.
  3. Horns: on Round 3, about 6 stitches apart, above the eyes.
  4. Ears: one on each side on Round 5, just outside and below each horn, with the fold facing forward.
  5. Body: center its open top under the head’s closing point and sew all the way round.
  6. Spots: sew them flat around their whole edge, on the head away from the face and on the back and sides of the body.

Check the work

Head totals: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, then 30 for five rounds, then 24, 18, 12 and 6. Muzzle: 6, 12, 18. Body: 6, 12, 18, 24, then 24 for six rounds, 18, 18 for two rounds and 12.

Single crochets by round, main piece6 · 12 · 18 · 24 · 30 · 30 · 30 · 30 · 30 · 30 · 24 · 18 · 12 · 6
  • If the muzzle puckers, sew it with smaller, evenly spaced stitches.
  • If the spots curl, sew around their whole edge.

Updated . Stitch counts checked row by row; we haven’t crocheted a sample of this one yet. How the patterns are checked. Keep your yarn label, hook and swatch on the printable project worksheet.

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