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Crochet hooks by type: grips, heads, sizes and sets

Choose the size first: the millimeters on the yarn label or in the pattern. Then choose the handle that suits your hands, and whether you want one hook or a set. There is no best hook for everyone; these are the types, and the hooks we’ve reviewed.

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Cushion grips

A soft rubber handle spreads the pressure of your fingers. Many people find them easier on the hands over a long evening; try one before buying a whole set.

Wide, flat handles

A flat thumb rest helps a knife grip and hands that dislike a thin shaft.

Weighted metal handles

A thick solid-metal body has some weight in the hand and a polished finish that slides through yarn.

Inline heads

The head is as wide as the shaft, with the throat cut in. It suits crocheters who push the hook straight into tight stitches; a tapered head, narrower than the shaft, slides in at an angle. Neither is better: they suit different hands.

Large hooks for chunky yarn

Hooks from 8 mm up for chunky, super bulky and jumbo yarn, often with a long handle to balance the head.

Steel hooks for thread

Steel hooks run from about 3.5 mm down to well under 1 mm, for crochet thread, lace and micro crochet. Their numbers run backwards and differ between brands, so choose by millimeters. We haven’t reviewed a steel hook yet; the hook size chart lists steel sizes.

Tunisian hooks

A Tunisian (afghan) hook is long, with a stopper at the end or a flexible cable, so a whole row of loops fits on it. Choose one or two sizes larger than you would for ordinary crochet. We haven’t reviewed a Tunisian hook yet; see how Tunisian crochet works.

How to choose

Match the millimeters to the yarn and your swatch. A hook that feels good in the shop can tire your hand after an hour, so a single hook in the size you need is a cheaper test than a set. Sets make sense once you know the handle you like and work in several yarn weights.