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Crochet potholder: two layers of cotton and a hanging loop

Make 2 squares of 30 single crochets and 34 rows, hold them together and single crochet around the edge through both layers: 132 stitches, with a chain loop at the last corner.

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Two layers joined around the edgeUS termsHook: 4.5 mm (US 7), or the size that gives you gaugeSize from your washed swatchEm portuguêsworsted yarn

Know these stitches: chain, single crochet, slip stitch

The finished potholder.

Materials and yarn planning

Yarns we’ve reviewed that suit it: Knit Picks Dishie Cone yarn, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton worsted yarn, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran. For the hook, choose by size and handle.

Yarn estimate: the 2,172 single crochets at about 4 cm of medium yarn each come to about 87 m, plus a few meters for the loop and the tails. Check the meters on your cotton’s label.

For an exact figure in your own yarn, weigh a washed swatch in the pattern stitch: the weighed-swatch yarn calculator scales it to each flat panel or strip. Allow a little more for seams, edging and tails.

Finished size and gauge

At 16 single crochets and 18 rows per 10 cm, each square is 30 stitches by 34 rows, about 19 cm each way. A hook a little smaller than the label suggests makes the dense fabric a potholder needs. Two layers of dense cotton are how potholders are usually made, but this one has not been tested against heat: try it on a warm pan before a hot one, keep it dry, since damp fabric lets heat through fast, and use an oven glove for oven trays. These are calculations from the counts, not a measured sample.

The gauge calculator compares your swatch with the pattern. A stitch name you do not know is in the abbreviation chart; a UK pattern’s names are in the US/UK term reference.

The pattern

Count rows for this pattern

Squares: make 2

  1. Chain 31. Row 1: single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across: 30 stitches.
  2. Rows 2–34: chain 1 and turn (it does not count), single crochet in each stitch across: 30. Fasten off the first square; keep the yarn on the second.

Join and loop

  1. Hold the squares together, edges matching, with the second square in front and its working loop at a top corner. Chain 1 and work through both layers. Top: 1 single crochet in the first stitch, 1 in each stitch up to the last and 3 in the last: 32.
  2. First side: 1 single crochet into the side of each row between the corners: 32. Bottom: 3 single crochets into the first chain of the foundation, 1 into each chain up to the last and 3 into the last: 34. Second side: 1 into the side of each row between the corners: 32.
  3. Back at the first corner, work 1 more single crochet into the first stitch, chain 12 for the loop, slip stitch into the same stitch and work 1 more single crochet there, so the corner has 3: 132 single crochets in the round. Slip stitch to the first single crochet, fasten off and weave the ends in between the layers.

Check the work

Each square has 30 stitches in every row and 34 rows. The joining round has 132 single crochets: 30 along the top and 30 along the bottom, 32 up each side, and 2 more at each corner.

Stitches in Row 1 and the last row of each square, then in the joining round30 · 30 · 132
  • If the squares are not the same size, count the rows of each; add or undo a row before joining.
  • If the edge ruffles, you worked more than one single crochet into some row ends; if it pulls in, fewer than one.
  • If you can see light through the fabric, it will let heat through: make the squares again with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.

Updated . Stitch counts checked row by row; we haven’t crocheted a sample of this one yet. How the patterns are checked. Keep your yarn label, hook and swatch on the printable project worksheet.

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